Puppies

Sick Puppies “All The Same”

Duration : 0:3:33

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We have a 4 month old border collie/blue heeler mix, and his gas is horrible. I do not give him table scraps, puppy food only. I have tried 3 different brands of food, thinking it was the puppy food, but it doesn’t seem to matter what brand it is, he still has horrible gas. Any suggestions?

Here are my suggestions:
Slow down dinners. Flatulence is often caused by air that is gulped down when pets eat too quickly. Putting a large object in his food dish will force your pet to slow down when eating. The object should be something that is too large for the pet to pick up in his mouth. Try something like a ping-pong ball for cats, a baseball for toy dogs, a softball for medium breeds, and an even larger ball for large and giant breeds. If you have more than one dog, feed them separately to reduce competition for food. You may also try scattering dry food around the house and/or yard so the dog will need to ‘forage’ for it.

Buy an elevated feeder. Dogs that do not have to bend over so far to eat swallow less air.

Take walks after dinner. Light exercise aids digestion and works out the gas while you are outside. If your dog eliminates during the walk, even better.

Switch food. Your brand of dog food may be the culprit, particularly if it is high in soy. Switch over gradually so your dog’s digestive system can adapt to the new food. Substitute about 25% new food for the old food each week so that by the fourth week your pet is on 100% new food.

Add Acidophilus or Prozyme to food. These products help in the digestive process and may help eliminate gas completely.

Watch what they eat. Too much food at one time can cause gas, as can eating out of the garbage, or too many table scraps.

I have a male rottweiler, he’s about 8 months old and I’m still feeding him Purina’s Beneful for Puppies. He’s beginning to get bored of the same food. But I heard that puppy food is for the nutrients and for the dogs to gain weight, I really wan my Rottie to gain more weight.

Do u feel u’r rott is underweight? If so, take him to the vet, could be worms. Hook worms are known for dogs losing weight. if u’r rott is not underweight, remember he’s still growing. As he matures, he’ll put on more weight. Also, u can start mixing puppy and adult food together at this point. Do that till he’s a year and then go straight to adult food.Not a good idea to give him canned food. He could get the runs. NEVER give u’r dog raw meat. U’r dog is not wild he is domesticated. Raw meat is NOT a good idea. Try a different brand of food as well. I feed my dogs NUTRO NATURAL CHOICE and their weight is just fine for their sizes.Believe me, he’ll put on weight, but make sure he doesn’t become obese.The right food and regular visits to the vet and u’r rott will grow to become a beautiful adult dog.

Rev. Manning Ustream That Puppy is my letter to Pastor Manning.
THE C.I.A. COLUMBIA OBAMA SEDITION & TREASON TRIAL: MAY 14 -19, 2010

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV-mGDUUCnQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQwxzhN2XLg

Duration : 0:9:20

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I have 5 week old puppies that I started to feed puppy food. (moist puppy food) now they are showing signs of being constipated. Is there anything I can give them to help them go.

take
it
to
a
VET

simple. dont mess about with internet advise, if you animal is sick take it to a vet. if a child is sick take it to a paediatrician, if your car is sick take it to a mechanic.

unless you really want to mess around with it yourself, mess it all up and make things much worse

My best friend Mikayla wants a puppy really bad (not me I am getting a puppy not me not FeeFee D). And her parents said that she can’t get a puppy until their 5 yr old Lab passes away but she wants one really bad. And she can’t stand waiting any longer. She wants a beagle puppy but her parents don’t wanna hear anything about a puppy how can she get them to let her get a puppy?

When i wanted a puppy i wrote my mom and dad a letter. It included many reasons why a puppy will be good for me and the family. I explained how i would take care of it and be completely responsible. In the end i got my puppy she is a lot of work but i love her more than life. Your friend sounds like she deserves one. I know what she is goin through cuase i waited 4 years and finally came up with this idea. i really hope it helps. I dont know if her parents will read it once they read the word puppy so She should aslo try writing a convincing letter to why they should have a mature meating with her about it. And then she should put together a short presentation that is sure to win then over. Her parents will definatly give in if she shows that she is grown up to handle the situation.
CAUTION!: do not throw a fit or tantrum over it. that will make her parents angry and they will surely say no! i know that one first hand too. If this doesnt work, im sorry and dont worry cause good things come to those who wait. i used to DREAD and HATE hearing that but it is so so so so so true even if she doenst want to belive so. hope it helped. bye♥

Cesar’s work with Last Chance for Animals results in happy endings for rescued puppies.

Dog Whisperer: Puppy Mills Exposed : http://channel.nationalgeographic.com/series/dog-whisperer/3736/Overview

Duration : 0:2:37

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We have two one year old female cats and are thinking of bringing a 8 week old puppy in to the household. However, we are unsure of how to introduce them. One of the cats is relitively calm but takes a little bit of time adusting to strangers, whilst the other is very laid back and confident. The puppy we are considering is very friendly. We are worried that being a puppy it may be to bouncy for the cats and they may become either aggressive or frightful, does anyone have any suggestions on introducing the newcomer and help them to get along.

leash the pup –
and for the first 4 or 5 days, putting the cats into a ROOM of their own,
w/ food + h2o separated as widely as possible, is best.
cats react badly to the sight or smell of a strange animal in their home –
by giving the cats both time + privacy, they get over their initial shock, and are
then curious.
but U must be sure to manage the entire encounter – space for the cats
to jump up, AWAY from a curious puppy, and good treats for calm behavior
from everyone, set a nice tone.

here’s a copy of HSUS protocol for introducing cats –
substitute the pup for the new-cat, and U are almost there…

but LEASH that pup, and be prepared to stand on the leash,
so poopsie can’t lunge at the cats – and wait several days before that
1st intro. a WEEK is not too long! longer is better…

after 10 or 15 mins, put the cats back in their room –
and rpt the next day. remember to associate nice goodies for both
felines + k9, for all calm , tolerant behavior.
U can even lure pup into a DOWN with a tidbit…

COPY =========== HSUS ‘Introductions, please…’

By following these steps* when adding another feline to the family, pet owners may be able to prevent the infighting and territorial behaviors that often lead to relinquishment:

At first, the cats should only be allowed to smell and hear each other, not see or touch each other.
This can be done by confining the new cat to a small section or one room of the house with all the necessities (litter box, food, water, toys, bed, etc.).
Place towels with the scent of the other cat underneath each cat’s food dish and on resting places. Rub the cat toys with the scent of the new cat. The goal is to have this scent be associated with “good things.”
After the new addition is comfortable in her room (anywhere from several hours to several days), confine the resident cat in this area and allow the new animal to explore the house, under supervision. This allows each cat to become more familiar with the other’s scent.
Feed or offer both cats treats close to the door to this room (one on each side). This helps each to associate “good things” with the other’s presence. Use “to die for” treats such as small pieces of tuna, chicken, or salmon.
Try slipping one end of a toy underneath the door to encourage the cats to paw at it or each other in a playful way.
Repeat these procedures until there are no aggressive or fearful responses and both cats begin to show some curiosity about the cat who is on the other side of the door.
Next, wedge the door open, from both sides, about an inch, with doorstops. This allows the cats to peek at each other, paw if they want to, but not have complete access to each other for things to go wrong. Do not progress past this step until the cats can see each other without fearful or aggressive responses. Continue to use toys, food, and petting as long as the cats aren’t threatening. Touching an agitated cat may result in a bite.
Next, wedge the door open a little farther, but not so much that the cats can get to one another. Repeat the previous step.
An ideal next step is to give the cats full view of one another behind a screen or glass door before being allowed together.
When the cats are first together, keep the session brief, and continue to offer enjoyable things—food, toys, petting.
If the cats are threatening or fearful when close to either side of the door to the confinement room, offer the tidbits at a greater distance from the door, where both cats can be calm.
Do not move the introduction along too quickly. The cats should be tolerating each other well at each step before progressing to the next. One bout of fighting may set the introduction back for months.
During initial time together, if any hissing or conflicts occur, try to distract the cats into another activity—dangle a toy, get the resident cat into the kitchen with the sound of food preparations, etc. If these reactions continue, back up a few steps in the introduction process.
Avoid having the cats together in a small space, such as a car, until they have become comfortable with each other.
Supervise interactions at home, and do not allow the cats to be alone together until they are consistently demonstrating friendly behaviors with each other for at least a week.
Punishment is rarely helpful with cat introductions as it is counterproductive in creating the association of “good things” with each other’s presence.
If a fight does occur, try a loud noise, such as an airhorn or ultrasonic device, or a water gun to break it up before either cat is injured. This should be used to interrupt the current interaction, not as a repeated procedure.
Don’t try to pull the cats apart or use interactive punishment. If interactions consistently result in fearful, threatening, or aggressive behavior, either the introduction was too abrupt, or this is not a problem prevention situation but instead requires problem resolution.
Keep the resident cat(s’) routine as much the same as possible by keeping feeding, play, and sleeping times and locations the same as before the new cat arrived.
*These steps are excerpted from Pet Behavior Protocols: What To Say, What To Do, When to Refer by S. Hetts, AAHA Press, Lakewood, CO, 1999.

Reproduced from the July-August 2002 issue of Animal Sheltering magazine.

When the Fire Brigade or the RSPCA cant help who do you call? Dyno-Rod of course!

Yesterday Dyno-Rod took a call from a very distressed lady from North London saying Please help me, I dont know what to do, the fire brigade are here and they cant do it.

The call was taken by Emma in the Wembley offices who calmed the lady down and managed to establish that a week old puppy had accidentally been flushed down the toilet and was now stuck in the drains.

The Fire Brigade and the RSPCA had been on site for around 3 hours but they could not rescue the tiny puppy so of course the next thing to do was to call Dyno Rod for help.

Local Dyno Rod Operations Manager, Mark, soon took charge of the rescue operation. Quick thinking Mark, suggested that Dyno Rods CCTV technology could be used to find out exactly where the puppy was stuck within the drainage system and that the neighbours needed to be told not to flush any toilets to ensure the puppy wasnt flushed into the main sewer. The lady was very concerned said Mark she was worried about the puppy and about the cost of the rescue. Mark was able to reassure her that there would not be a charge from Dyno Rod. All we were concerned about was getting the puppy out alive he added.

The puppy has now been checked over by the local vet and remarkably is unhurt and recovering well. As a tribute to the rescue team he has been named Dyno!

Dyno-Rod engineer Will Craig was at the scene a few minutes later to put the plan into action. CCTV was used to find the puppy and then the equipment was used to gently push him through the drainage system to the next manhole where a fireman was waiting to rescue him.

Duration : 0:2:42

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I am getting a Shihtzu puppy from a friend. It has just done its 1st vaccine 2 days ago. It is now safe to bring the puppy home? What are the chances of the puppy dying or being sick? Will it die during the 2nd or 3rd vaccinations? I’m really confused. Should i let it finish all 3 vaccines before i bring it home? Please help. Thanks all!

No, it will not die. Vaccines are to protect your puppy from getting ill and passing away. You can bring the puppy home after the 1st vaccines, just please make sure you go in the the vet for the follow-up vaccines. They are VERY important. Puppy’s shots always come in a series to help them become immune to the specific viruses that they are getting vaccinated against.

Your puppy may be sleepy or less active after the vaccines though. This is absolutely normal, so dont be alarmed.

Make sure you talk to your vet about any concerns or questions you have.